Our Philippine House Project – Roof and Roofing

What we’ve learned about roofing systems, roof trusses, roofing materials and cost of roofing in the Philippines as part of our house building project.

roof_illustrate

Roofing systems have become very standardized in the Philippines.  What we describe here is the roof system that goes on most houses except the very high end such as real clay tile or cement tile, a few asphalt shingle roofs and the Nipa or sheet steel roofs of the ordinary “bahay” – native house.

Concrete Roofs. See THIS POST

We have drawn some conclusions from Typhoon Yolanda damage in Tacloban, including ways that our roof could be made more typhoon resistant.  See http://myphilippinelife.com/lessons-from-yolanda-building-construction/

Metal Roof Basics.  Steel trusses of various designs rise from the topmost concrete roof beam.  The trusses are welded to stubs of rebar protruding through and well anchored in the concrete roof beam.  (One reader suggests that this is inadequate.  See comments below)

The trusses are almost always welded-up on-site and then primed.  It’s best to use one of the two part epoxy primers, especially if you’re anywhere near the sea.  We used Boysen Red Oxide Epoxy Primer which we bought from Iloilo City Hardware on Iznart Street in Iloilo City.  The cost was P603 per gallon.  You get two cans per gallon, the primer and a smaller can of  hardener.  You’ll also have to buy epoxy reducer, an expensive thinner for epoxy.  The reducer is about P420 per gallon.  Some of my crew members tended to waste the reducer, especially trying to clean brushes. Finally, I learned to buy cheap brushes which could be discarded.  Once the hardener is mixed into the primer, it very difficult to clean brushes.  There are cheaper epoxy primers, but we’re impressed with the Boysen.

Roof is going 4-10-10

Roof is going up 4-10-10.  This photo shows the perimeter wall, the carport, the bahay kubo and my “office”.

Metal trusses of of various designs rise from the roof beam which top the hollow block walls.  The trusses are welded to stubs of rebar previously embedded in the roof beam for that purpose.  This system seems to work.  We did not see any roofs of this type blown off during Typhoon Frank in Iloilo City.  Here you see four 12mm rebar wrapped around the truss and welded in place.   In total, the roof is held on by at least thirty such rebars.

roofing_attachment_3

Our roof  trusses were a bit unusual.  Most trusses use the interior walls of the house for support so that the spans are shorter.  This requires less steel and saves money.  Our trusses were designed so that they could span the entire house without support — sort of like what you’d see in a basketball court or warehouse.  This would allow us to have quite a lot of open space in the attic, although we never requested this and are unlikely to use the attic space.

Making roof rafters in our new on-site welding shop

Making roof rafters in our on-site welding shop

The center girt is 40cm wide and is welded up from 2″ x 2″ angle bar, 5mm for the frame and 3mm for the webbing.  The 35cm wide rafters use the same angle bar.

Originally, the height of our roof from the top of the wall to the peak of the roof girt was to be 2.5 meters.  We put up the center girt and two rafters and the roof pitch just looked too low.  On the spot, we decided to increase the roof height to 3.0 meters This what’s possible when you’re running your own crew, but such decisions, if they’re not carefully thought out, can have ramifications you’ve not yet imagined.  In this case we seem to have gotten away with this snap decision.  Of course the steeper roof meant more roof area and more roofing materials.

3-23-10 The first rafter goes up and we decide on more roof pitch.

3-23-10 The center girt and first rafter go up and we decide on more roof pitch.

Turnbuckles welded to rebar are used to bring rafters into alighnment before purlins are attached.  Also shown are collar ties at the peak of the roof.

Turnbuckles welded to rebar are used to bring rafters into alighnment before purlins are attached. Also shown are collar ties at the peak of the roof.

Once the trusses and or rafters are in place, a system of lightweight steel purlins are installed perpendicularly across the rafters.  The purlins can be initially first pop-riveted to the rafters, then when the all adjustments have been made, welded to them. These are our 2″ x 3″ 1.2mm roof purlins.  They all have to be painted with epoxy primer.  We paid P400 each for them in April 2010 but steel prices are going up rapidly.  Our roof needed 85 of these purlins.  They are spaced between 50 and 60CM apart.  You have to be very careful when shopping for purlins to make sure the material is not substandard in thickness.

2" x 3" roof purlins

Purlins are welded to rafters using scraps of angle bar

Purlins are welded to rafters using scraps of angle bar

Roof structure

Roof structure

This photo shows the purlins installed across the rafters (trusses). The photo really shows all the elements of the roof structure; the 40cm center girt at the ridge, the 35cm rafters, the collar beams and the purlins.  Next comes the facia and soffit frames.

The purlins support the long span steel roofing, but before the roof itself is put on, a metal  “facia frame” is installed around the perimeter of the roof.  Our frame is welded up of 1″ x 1″ angle bar and 1″ flat bar.  This frame supports and is hidden by a metal facia “board”. The facia frame may also supports the soffit.  At the rakes, the facia frame is welded to ends of the purlins.  At the eves they can be welded across the rafter tails.  The facia frame is the structural heart of the Philippine roof cornice system.

A simple roof

A simple roof

This is a photo of a very simple roof.  It shows the scalloped prefabricated steel facia, the prefab gutter attached to the facia and the red oxide primed purlins supporting the unpainted galvanized roofing.  On simple buildings like this one, pop rivets hold things together.

Shown here are small samples of the standard facia "board"  and the gutter used in Philippine metal roofing.

Shown here are small samples of the standard facia “board” (left) and the gutter (right) used in Philippine metal roofing.

Here are the metal facia and the gutter positioned on a facia frame.

Here are the metal facia and the gutter positioned on a facia frame.

Once the purlins, facia and soffit frames, facia board and gutters are in place, the long span roofing can be screwed to the purlins using self-tapping tek screws.  This is usually done by a crew working for the company which sells the roofing.  “Long span” means that the roofing sheets are long enough to reach from eave to peak without joints. Once the roofing is on, the matching ridge caps and any other accessories go on.

Soffit and facia frames

Soffit and facia frames

This photo shows the soffit frame (below) and the facia frame. The soffit frame is constructed of 1½ x 1½” 1/8″ (2mm) angle bar.  This angle bar is P305 for a 6 meter length. It’s cheaper than wood.  We used a 60cm x 120cm framework of this angle bar for our entire ceiling structure.

To recap; a system of lightweight steel purlins are installed perpendicular to the trusses.  The purlins provide support for the long span steel roofing which is screwed to the purlins using “tek” screws.  The other parts of this standardized system are a steel frame welded to the ends of the rafter tails.  This “facia frame” extends around the entire roof edge.  A pre-painted steel facia “board” is attached to and covers the facia frame.  Then pre-painted, decorative gutter is attached to the facia board.  The installation of the facia frame, facia board and gutter allow the tweaks and adjustments so that the final roof installation can proceed smoothly.

These roofing systems are generally available in .4, .5  and .6mm thickness. Generally .4mm is used as it’s the least expensive.  We originally ordered .5mm for the roofing and .6mm for the gutters but it was not available so we had to order .6mm at a considerably higher price.  This has proved to be a blessing.  If you can afford it, the .6mm roofing is very worthwhile.  The .4mm roofing is rather easily damaged by workers and ladders and rusts out more quickly.   Our roofing is said to be “Galvalume” coated, that is coated with a mixture of aluminum and zinc which is supposed to be more durable than ordinary galvanized steel.  Supposedly the paint is applied in a Taiwan factory.  This 6mm material is widely used in roofing commercial buildings.  Update June, 2010.  After two years we do not see the slightest sign of corrosion.

May 5, 2010 roofing arrives.  Completed roof structure in background.

May 5, 2010 roofing arrives. Completed roof structure in background.

Metal facia being installed. 5-7-10

Metal facia being installed. 5-7-10

Installing the gutter 5-8-10

Installing the gutter 5-8-10

Insulation.   Metal roofs are notorious for turning your attic space into an oven. It’s fairly common to install a thin foil-faced foam insulation under the roofing to try to reduce heat transfer.  We were dubious about the durability of foam under such extremely hot conditions.  We also wondered if so much foam could be a fire hazard so we decided to use foil-faced 25mm fiberglass instead.

Insulation as it comes from the supplier, Far Eastern Hardware, Iloilo

Gluing foil to unfaced fiberglass insulation using contact cement

Foil-faced fiberglass insulation ready for installation

Insulation supported by 16 AWG galvanized wire

The insulation, foil face up,  is supported by a network of 16 gauge galvanized “tie” wire.  Holes are drilled in the purlins and the tie wire in threaded through the purlins.  The holes are positioned so as to leave a 1/2″ air space between the foil and the underside of the roofing.  This spacing improves the reflective properties of the foil.

Followup.  Having lived in the house for four years, we have found another big advantage to the insulation is that the roof is MUCH quieter when it rains.  A neighbor has a very similar house with metal roofing and Hardiflex ceilings but no insulation.  It is much noisier when it rains.  It’s possible that thinner gauge roofing is also noisier. This makes a big difference, especially sleeping on stormy nights. 

The roofing is available in a range of colors.  We’re using a light color.  See this New York Times article on how white roofs save energy.  Dark metal roof colors are quite popular in the Philippines, we guess because they give the look of clay tile roofs.

Roof going on.  Reflective foil under roof.

Roof going on. Reflective foil under roof.

Roof going on over foil and fiberglass

Roof going on over foil and fiberglass

Fiberglass insulation.

Fiberglass insulation.

Now that the roof is on, the house looks a bit like a Philippine basketball court.  The interior walls are 3.4 meters above the finished floor.  It’s another 3.0 meters to the roof peak.  The total height is about 20 feet.  We could have spectacular cathedral ceilings, but will likely install ceilings between 3.2 and 3.4 meters above the finish floor level giving us a 10 foot ceiling height.  Even then, changing light bulbs and cleaning ceiling fans will require a high ladder!  The ceilings will be supported by ceiling joists of 1.5″ x 1.5″ 2mm angle bar.

This photo also shows electrical conduit running from outlets to the panel box.  The concrete floor will be poured over the conduit.

The design of our roof includes two large vents high in the roof.   More on that later.

Soffits.  Soffits are one of the parts (along with gutters) of the Philippine house that tend to deteriorate quickly and to require the most maintenance.  Perhaps that is because some use cheap plywood or because cement board does not hold up well in that location.  Maybe it’s because soffits never see the sun and may be vulnerable to mildew and rot.  Whatever the problem, choosing the right material is going to make your life easier in the future.  We have a modest single story house.  Scrubbing ours down is a pretty big job.  If you have a two-story house, maintaining the soffits (and gutters) is a really big job, probably requiring bamboo scaffolding.

Material options for the soffits include pre-painted, ventilated steel soffit packages, plastic ventilated soffits material, Hardiflex brand cement board and plywood.  Since we were trying to give our house a bit of a traditional feel, the metal soffit system, while very practical, are a little too reminiscent of a mobile home for us.   Hardiflex appears to be similar to the asbestos-cement board we used to see, but the asbestos has been replaced with wood fiber.  We decided to use painted 1/2″ marine plywood.  The plywood is referred to “11mm plywood” but actually measures 10mm.  Since a hole punched in the soffit can open up access to the building, we felt that plywood was a more secure choice than the brittle Hardiflex.  The plywood is attached to the steel soffit frame with 3/16″ blind rivets.  The rivet heads are recessed and filled.  All surfaces of the plywood are primed before installation.

Plywood soffit panels August 2, 2010

Plywood soffit panels August 2, 2010

Note that, except for the plywood soffits,  not one bit wood is used in the entire roof structure.  Termites are a part of this, but Philippine forests have been almost entirely cut off and wood is quite expensive.

soffit_vents_long soffit_vents_corner

The finished soffits with vents.  The long vents are available for purchase at building supply stores.  We built the square vents at each corner of the house ourselves.  All vents are screened from above.  These look nice but may be a maintenance headache long term compared with metal or plastic ventilated soffits.

Our choice of plywood for the soffits was probably not a good one.  While we have not had serious problems during the first three years, our soffits get dark with mildew quite quickly.  We have to scrub them down with soap and bleach at least once per year.  Over time, we may have problems with termites or other wood borers.  Look at the metal and plastic options.  We don’t like the look of them, but if you do, they may be a good choice.

lucban_soffit

You can get creative.  This is a soffit with decorative ventilation on an old building in Lucban, Quezon Province.  It looks like sheet metal to us.  Good quality sheet metal (such as Galvalume)  riveted to the soffit frame should be a good choice.  This kind of decorative metalwork would be prohibitively expensive in the developed world, but in the Philippines you find skilled metal workers to do such work for an affordable price.

Cost. The surface area of our roof  is about 300 square meters.  The total cost of the roof excluding the structural elements but including insulation and installation is about P280,000 or about P700 per square meter.  The fiberglass insulation added about P50,000.  We were told to expect to pay about P500 per square foot for our roof but using better materials drove the price higher.  We have not yet calculated the total cost of the roof structure plus roofing but it must be at least P800,000.

We purchased the roofing from and it was installed by Far Eastern Hardware, 38 Quezon Street, in Iloilo City. We dealt with Victoria “Baby” Ang.   When our plans were found not to be complete enough for our crew to build the roof structure, Baby sent an engineer out to help at no charge.   Land line phone for Far Eastern is +63-33-337-2654.  Mobile for Ms. Ang is+63-918-888-2228.  Getting through can be a challenge.  Ms. Ang is quite business-like.  One time she failed to give us the usual friendly greeting to us as we walked in to negotiate an order for more building materials.  She joked, “if you want friendly, go to Jolibee” and laughed. Our business dealings with Far Eastern and Mrs. Ang were always straightforward and satisfactory.

Summary. All parts of this Philippine roofing system are matching;  preformed and pre-painted so that the entire ensemble of roof panel, gutter, facia board and ridge cap are in the same design and color.  This is a very slick, economical and attractive system which provides a durable roof able to withstand the monsoons, typhoons, termites and other rigors of life in the Philippines at a moderate cost. We’re impressed.  My only reservation is that roof sealants (Elastaseal, Vulcoseal etc.) seem to be an accepted part of the Philippine roofing world.  I have some experience with high quality metal roofing on U.S. historic restoration projects.  I consider the use of these sealants to be a bad sign.  These sealants always fail.  A roofing system that depends on them is poorly designed and will require frequent maintenance as the sealants break down.  Our rental apartment has a metal roof.  Whenever there’s a strong rain, it leaks and the landlord sends a crew with tubes of roof cement to try to repair the leaks.  That’s not how I’d like to spend my retirement! A properly constructed metal roof will use proper design, not sealants and will be leak free for decades.

Roof completed 5-20-10

Roof completed 5-20-10

Roof Design

Here’s a little about the architectural design of our roof.   Our roof design goes against the trend.  Increasingly elaborate roof designs are very popular, especially for houses that are or aspire to be “upscale”.  The more valleys, ridges, dormers and other complications the more impressive the house.  Bob was brought up in the northern U.S. where every valley was another spot for ice and snow to build up and cause ice dams and leaks to form,  so simple roofs are an instinctive choice.

These over-complex roofs are a recent development in the Philippines.  Traditional Philippines houses had “dos aguas” or “quatro aguas” roofs.  These terms are a carryover from the Spanish “un tejado de dos aguas”, a simple ridged roof or “un tejado de quatro aguas” a hip roof.  The older members of my construction crew still understand and use these old Spanish terms.

Simple gable roof

Simple gable roof


Hip roof

Hip Roof

The hip roof has been very popular in traditional Philippine buildings and for good reason.  In a land where buildings are buffeted by typhoons every year, the hip roof is streamlined, giving the winds little purchase.

Hipped roof Philippine house

The roof above was popular in the 19th century but during the Commonwealth era one starts to see a modification which adds roof vents.

Here's an example south of Cebu City

Here’s an example south of Cebu City

Closer is the old Guimbal, Iloilo Municipal building.  Guimbal has a new city hall but thankfully has preserved the older one.

Closer is the old Guimbal, Iloilo Municipal building. Guimbal has a new city hall but thankfully has preserved the very elegant older one. Photo from HCS.

House in Lucban, Quezon Province

House in Lucban, Quezon Province, our architectural model.

In Western architectural lingo such roofs are called “gablet” roofs or “Dutch gable” roofs.

gablet_roof

Certainly the aesthetic for this roof  is inspired by the roof profile of the beloved Philippine “bahay kubo” native bamboo house. Filipinos, rich or poor, seem to have a deep attachment to life in the provinces.  For Filipinos, the provincial life  and the bahay kubo conjure up an idyllic paradise lost.  Of course Filipinos know about the hardships of provincial life, but those don’t seem to dilute the romantic attraction of life in the provinces.  Just consider the current crop of TV soaps which alternate between a sorid, squabbling life in huge, pretentious houses in Manila, lives filled with greed, envy and bickering.  Then in a flash you are in the provinces, in a bahay kubo,maybe with some pretty capiz windows–a harmonious pastoral life populated with kindly, wise lolos and lolas with birds singing and maybe a carabao contentedly ploughing in the background!

Panay Island bahay kubo

Panay Island bahay kubo

This rustic bahay kubo roof design, transferred to wood frame and concrete buildings,  has evolved to incorporate a ventilator in the peak of the roof.  We wanted to incorporate at least some Filipino style into our house and also realized the advantages of attic ventilation under our hot metal roof.  Here’s our original design for a two story house.

Perspective Drawing for our Tigbauan House

Perspective Drawing for our Tigbauan House

We finally decided on a one story home but kept the roof design we liked so much.  In retrospect (5-12) this was probably not a good decision for our very exposed location.  Storms blow water through the ventilators onto the Hardiflex so we have had to block off the ventilators.  Readers have recommended that we install storm-proof ventilator grills.  We shall do so but our attic ventilation is adequate without the vents at the peak.  Including the peak vents added complexity to the construction, cost quite a lot of extra money, will require maintenance and really provide little or no benefit.  The low pitched hip roofs seen on many Philippine houses are practical and affordable.

Workers install Mahogany ventilator in roof peak of our new home

Workers install Mahogany ventilator in roof peak of our new home

More at /our-house-project-design-devolution/

Comments (109)

  1. Hello,

    I was looking for information about steel truss design and construction, its cost and advantage over wooden truss. I am glad to have read your article. Thank you.

    God bless.

  2. Dear Sir,

    I have one comment in the pictures on how the roof insulation was installed… We usually install the insulation face-up and the foil will seen below the insulation, this will also protect the fibers falling down and will last long or preserve the insulation fibers to accomulate inside the ceiling void.

    I am little bit shock in the way you install the roof installation. i have supplied and install roofing sheets and insulation for more that 50 houses but we never install the insulation the way you did.

    Can you explain to me what is your reason for this,

    thanks,

    • Hi Jay,

      In a place with a cold climate, reflective insulation is installed below the insulation. The idea is to reflect heat from inside the house back into the house, thereby retaining the heat in the attic. In a hot climate the idea is to reflect heat from the outside (the sun) back out through through the roof so that the attic remains cooler. You can see some example from the Oak Ridge National Laboratory http://web.ornl.gov/sci/ees/etsd/btric/RadiantBarrier/rb4a.shtml. An air space between the underside of the roof and the foil is essential.

      Bob

    • Hi Jay,

      You said “We usually install the insulation face-up and the foil will seen below the insulation, this will also protect the fibers falling down and will last long or preserve the insulation fibers to accomulate inside the ceiling void.” So the main reason is to protect the fibers from falling down and protect the insulation fibers, but ask yourself what is the main purpose of the silver foil. It is to reflect the heat back up.

      Kindly be reminded of the 3 types of heat transfer:
      Conduction- the transfer of heat from matter to matter
      Convection- the transfer of heat from matter to air
      Radiation- the transfer of heat from one point to another, such as boiling water.

      The foil uses convection to reflect heat back up into the attic.

      Jay – I would be very appreciative if you can explain to us any other reason besides “protecting the insulation fibers” why you install the insulation with the foil facing down? Thanks for any information.

  3. Dear Bob and Carol,

    I would like to get some insight from your own personal thoughts and experiences about the questions below:

    Why doesnt anyone use ridge vents here in the Philippines? I am thinking of putting on up on our house so that heat will have a way to get out. I have a apartment style housing unit – so the roof is like in the picture here:
    http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_uwiuJv03-d4/Srb7Aqcj7gI/AAAAAAAAFeU/LXKUu0a-F6Q/s1600-h/Roof+Ventilation.jpg

    http://www.metalroofing.com/v2/forums/uploads/attachments/ridge_vent.jpg

    We have no attic – just a little space in between the metal roof and the ceiling boards –

    My question – why doesnt anyone use ridge vents here in the Philippines?

    Also I noticed that your roof does not have any – roof turbines –
    http://www.sparrowexteriors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/whirly-bird.jpg
    What are your thoughts about those and any kind of ventilation here in the Philippines?

    How did you fasten the ends of the foil-fiberglass insulation to the roof? tied down? bolted? glued? or pressed in between 2 pieces of metal or something?

    Thanks in advance.

    • Noel,

      I am not sure about the ridge vents. We do see roof turbines. They make them from scratch at local tin shops. Perhaps others can pipe in about the ridge vents.

      Bob

    • On the ridge vents, the reasons why Philippine houses doesn’t use ridge vents as opposed to the typical American houses are the following: 1) the Philippine National Building Code doesn’t require it; 2) it’s not available in the market; 3) local architects, engineers, and contractors doesn’t know about its use for the most part.
      In the US, attic ventilation has been studied and experimented throughout the years. Hence, the proper venting techniques were introduced and adopted by State Building Codes. Therefore, once it gets into the code, it becomes a “minimum” requirement. There is a section in the code that basically dictates how much area you need to calculate for lower and upper venting. Venting is primarily to address not just the heat and how it affects HVAC performance, but the potential for snow build up in the roof and how to minimize it. I highly suggest that on the case of the Philippines climate, lower and upper venting should be encouraged.

      • Thank you Hector – I already decided to put a ridge vent on my abode. Its just common sense, The heat would only build up or slowly seep out if there was no way for it to get out. I thoroughly checked on all possible roof venting options and I think ridge vent is the best. Now I just need to get one made. Thanks again for your post, I do appreciate it.

    • On the ridge vents, the reasons why Philippine houses doesn’t use ridge vents as opposed to the typical American houses are the following: 1) the Philippine National Building Code doesn’t require it; 2) it’s not available in the market; 3) local architects, engineers, and contractors doesn’t know about its use for the most part.
      In the US, attic ventilation has been studied and experimented throughout the years. Hence, the proper venting techniques were introduced and adopted by State Building Codes. Therefore, once it gets into the code, it becomes a “minimum” requirement. There is a section in the code that basically dictates how much area you need to calculate for lower and upper venting. Venting is primarily to address not just the heat and how it affects HVAC performance, but the potential for snow build up in the roof and how to minimize it. I highly suggest that in the case of the Philippines climate, lower and upper venting should be encouraged. Especially if you want to save some bucks when cooling your house. Or just to minimize heat build-up in the attic which potentially affects the interior of the house.

  4. Hi Bob and Carol,

    I’ve been researching on the insulation blanket issue that Ian Goddard also mentioned and my thoughts were the same as yours, however local contractors and other people I asked keep telling me it should be foil side down! It really confused me as it would be useless that way. Everywhere I looked – people were installing it foil side down. There were some inane answers as to why the foil side would be down such as it stops the foam from falling out… Anyhow, thanks for the website. Love your house, everything from roof, structure, everything… is what I also thought of if I build my own house.

      • Exactly! That’s why I am dumbfounded by every single place I see where the foil is facing down! I just cannot understand it… it really irks me!!

        • I understand your frustration. But this practice has been going on for decades in the Phippines. It’s hard to re-educate the people on proper practice especially when supposed professional builders couldn’t explain the basics of proper installation.

          Going back to attic venting, it is imperative that lower venting located in the overhangs be balanced (50/50) with the required net venting area for upper venting (such as ridge venting). IBC Code states that, “The net free venting area shall not be less than 1/300 of the space ventilated, with 50 percent of the required ventilating area provided by ventilators located in the upper portion of the space to be ventilated at least 3 feet above eave vents with the balance of the required ventilation provided by eave or cornice vents.” And be sure to provide an attic access from the interior space with a minimum 22″x36″.

  5. Hi Bob and Carol!

    I really found your tip with the insulation really useful and I’ve been trying to tell contractors here that its the way to go. but usually im met with a lot of adversity because they are very unfamiliar with the method you used. I’m trying to figure out how to properly lay and terminate the ends of each fiberglass sheet. Can you help me out more on this?

    I’m thinking, with the above method, instead of laying the insulation sheets north-south direction, you did it East to west? and then probably cut out the ends diagonally where the roofing on each side meet and used duct tape to seal?

    would really love to learn more about it! hope you can help a fellow out!

    Thanks very much!

    Justin

    • Hi Justin,

      Thanks for your very kind comments about myphilippinelife.com. They are very much appreciated! We are glad you found the site to be helpful.

      Regarding the insulation, yes we applied it the long way. The foil is glued to to “top” of the fiberglass and the support wires spaced so that there is an air space between the foil and the underside of the roof. No tape was used as it might be in a cold climate. The only minor problem is where the fiberglass batts end at the gable ventilators. Wind blows in and has pushed back the very end of the batts that end there. Over time there might be a problem with lizards, birds and rodents wanting to burrow in the fiberglass might cause some problems, but nothing serious so far.

      Does this answer your question?

      Regards

      Bob and Carol

    • That’s true in cold climates where you are trying to keep heat in, but in hot climates you want to keep heat out. Therefore the foil should be under the roofing, separated by an air gap from both the roofing and the fiberglass insulation.

    • Through Far Eastern Hardware in Iloilo City. Speak to Victoria “Baby” Ong.

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