The Philippine system is a concrete skeleton; base, end panels and under counter. In basic homes, the countertop may be tiled and the bare concrete painted. The part of the concrete base inside the cabinets is usually tiled. We’re using the same concrete core, but with applied wood cabinets faces and end panels, factory-made doors and drawer fronts, granite countertops and, inside, some of the stainless steel kitchenware shelving systems available here — slide-out baskets and so forth. The wood framework may be of mahogany which is beautiful and cheap, about P25 per board foot. We can go to the local sawmills and pick though the stock to find the best lumber.
The above photo also shows the tiled bathroom. In retrospect we made mistakes with the bathroom sink and cabinet. Unlike in the kitchen, we did not install tiled concrete cabinet bases. The problem is that when the bathroom floor is washed (or flooded) water can seep into the cabinet and anything stored on the floor will be soaked. The reason for not building the bases was that we did not want to pour concrete for the bases over the newly tiled bathroom floor. That was a mistake! The second problem is that the sink was installed too far back in the counter. It would have been easier to use if it was further forward.
Skip ahead several weeks. We were uncertain about what we should do about kitchen cabinets. The prefabricated cabinets which were available in Iloilo City were mostly flimsy and overpriced. We knew that others had obtained nicer cabinets in Cebu City. In the end, for reasons of speed (we wanted to move in) and cost we decided to let our carpenter try his hand at the cabinets. If we were unhappy with the result we could hire a cabinet maker to redo the work. We bought planed lumber (mahogany and acacia) from a local sawmill and doors, hinges and other hardware from Citi Hardware.
Cabinet bases, as is typical in the Philippines, are tiled with the same tile as the floor. This makes the bases impervious to bugs, rodents and rot — a real plus. They are easy to keep clean. The plastic racks inside the cabinet are temporary. They will be replaced by slide-out shelves.
Having suffered with lousy hinges on cabinets in our rentals, we bought the best ones we could find. These Home Aid hinges were about P110. They work well. Cheaper hinges are about P30.
The cabinet carcass is of 2″ x 2″ mahogany. The facing is 1″ mahogany. Wood is attached to the concrete cabinet sides, top, and bottom with nylon “tox” expansion anchors and screws.
We used three-section ball bearing drawer slides, again because we had struggled with cheap drawer slides elsewhere. Cheap hardware is one of the banes of Philippine houses. These slides allow the drawers to be fully extended. The drawers are made of acacia lumber, which reminds me of the butternut found in the US — a pretty, fairly soft wood.
At the upper right of this photo you can see screw heads where the cabinet face is attached to the concrete cabinet frame. Of course, these will be filled.
We bought very nice stainless steel handles for the drawers and cabinet doors. These were P209 each at Citi Hardware. We thought they were a much better deal than the handles offered at Ace Hardware.
This cabinet holds the appliances. Eventually, there will be an 8′ wide, glass fronted cabinet above this unit. Once all the cabinets are done they will be finished and spray painted with automotive enamel, probably white.
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January 1, 2012 at 2:17 pm
Looks like a job well done! We’ll also be renovating our kitchen this summer and I need a lot of great ideas.Since we don’t have a “dirty kitchen”, our kitchen not only needs to be functional and low maintenance but beautiful as well. Currently the cement foundation of our cabinets are falling apart, though our countertops are marble, we really don’t know if we should change everything or just the cement base.Water is also accumulating underneath the sink and countertops.Any suggestions from readers?
Anotherproblem small space.
Ness
August 19, 2011 at 7:30 pm
We’re making concrete frames for most cabinets where water is nearby. My builder said the vertical can be 2 inch, horizontal 3 inch. This sounds like overkill since there are guys in the US making 1.5inch or 2 inch tops. If the rebar is strong and properly placed, and the concrete is stiff that should work for reasonable spans (I also have to fight for a dryer mix, because the workers love wet mix — so easy to pour, but very weak). When I am not around, I am sure they add too much water. Ignorance is hard to cure.
Anyway, looks like yours are 3 inch all around? What are people doing?
August 4, 2011 at 11:59 pm
Cool project. We are building a house in Angeles and will be using concrete for the kitchen cabinets. I was unsure of how to finish the rest of the door/drawer system, but this gives me some ideas now.
I initially frowned at concrete, but having seen some our builder has put up in another house I am surprised and impressed with the neatness. Ours will be 33″ high as my wife is just 5′ tall. She wants tiles on the top, not granite, but that may change yet…
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December 12, 2010 at 7:22 pm
Bill B.
Yes the kitchen is big, 4.3m wide (14′). Many efficient kitchen layouts are for the convenience of one “chef”. Since Carol and I both like to cook and our niece Lyka also joins in, the big kitchen is really a pleasure. We don’t get in each other’s way.
Bob
December 9, 2010 at 7:38 pm
Bob & Carol,
Your guys kitchen looks great. I love the size and layout because it makes it easy to work in, more so seeing that here in the RP the kitchen can have three to five cooks working at the same time. The wood look is what I like and I don’t think I would paint, but I know that you need to protect the cabinets. What about using a clear enamel, not sure is the kitchen boss likes the wood look or not.
I think the only thing that I would have done different is to move the lone cabinet on the wall and made it an island that you could use tall chairs with. Any hoo it looks great and I bet you guys are very happy with what you have.
Happy Holidays to you both.
Bill B
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September 23, 2010 at 6:17 pm
Hi Carol, yes you could do that and provided it is the same height as the working surface a “chopping board” would slide over the hole and the bits slid inside……my thoughts are for an access outside, then the cleanup is even neater?
Peter
September 17, 2010 at 8:56 am
I just think out loud maybe the waste bin can be done separately from kitchen counter. Like a roll around working table that you can move around and push on the side of the kitchen when done?
September 15, 2010 at 12:32 pm
Hi Bob. I’ve been a quiet follower of your project since the beginner. Very interesting reading. Joy and I were in Oton the first two weeks August. Unfortunately, we were dealing with a death in the Family and I did not make time for a visit – I would have really enjoyed visiting with you and see your project first hand.
Question: I know it’s not the United States, but from the pictures, it doesn’t look like the Philippines has or enforces any type of OSHA standards. Did you or your workers have any safety problems?
Thanks for sharing with all of us.
R / Ray & Joy
PS: Joy has been having her Mamang’s place (Oton) worked on (off & on) for the past couple years (money permitting). We have outside and inside work still to be completed. Your recent article on the finishing will come in handy.
September 13, 2010 at 9:23 pm
Looking great, Bob and Carol!!! a waste bin! how clever! i’m learning a lot here–my home in Iloilo is done, but the kitchen will be completed upon retirement.
September 8, 2010 at 8:54 pm
I have the same problem being short and could not stir when using my tall pots. I have requested my builder to lower my counter stove by 6 inches and the contractor was saying they have to comply to code in Florida. I will definitely lower the height for my stove. Peter, thanks for that wonderful idea about the waste bin. I will incorporate it too.
September 7, 2010 at 6:26 am
Hi Bob,
We have a small room that we call the “dirty kitchen” and we planned to fit a gas ring to hold a large wok to do the messy frying. The available cast iron rings for the job were made for floor use and I couldn’t think of a way to mount one inside the granite. Chose a single gas burner but Mila needs to be on tip toes to stir a wok!! Not good enough. The next place will have a concrete top and I’ll design a whole for the large burner to sit under. the height will be much less so that the cook can use a wok comfortably.
Another good idea is to have a waste bin fitted under the worktop so that all the waste from preparing food is simply moved over the bin. I’ve seen this on a tv programme fitted to an upmarket designer kitchen and it would not be beyond the DIY guy to achieve the same, albeit with dustbin and plastic lid from the local hardware.
September 5, 2010 at 12:20 am
I think it is wise to use the concrete cores for the counters. Like you said with all the moisture that we have here in the RP. I also think that having the Merit Marble install your granite is a great idea. Not saying that your crew could not have done it. Anyone can install granite, but only someone right the right trainning can install it right and have it look great.
Can’t wait to see the granite counter tops and the cabinets installed.
September 4, 2010 at 8:56 am
I agree Bob that concrete is so much more durable and long lasting. Its looking good and I am so much looking forward to the final blog post showing a completed house. Ron